Necktie device



y 1944- A. .1. FIUMEDORO 2,350,104

NECKTIE DEVICE Filed Jui 25, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet l w L ///////////A W May 30, 1944.

NECKTIE DEVICE Filed July 23, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet? A. .1. FIUMEDORO 2,350,104

Patented May 30, 1944 v UNITED v NECKTIE; DEVICE Ali J. Fiumedoro, Boston; Mass, assignor of onethird to JosephD. Ramsey, Boston, Mass.

Application July 23, 1941, Serial-No. 403,626

3 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of neckties and more especially to methods and apparatus for assembling and securingtogether the component parts of neckties of the four-in-hand type.

In the manufacture of neckties of the four-inhand type, two specially cut pieces of suitable fabric, a covering material and a lining, are stitched together. Prior to the stitching operation, the covering material is folded wrong side out with opposite edges lying adjacent one another, and a lining element is superimposed above the folded tie fabric in a position such that the edges of the covering may be stitched to the lining along a central portion thereof. After the stitching operation, the tie is turned inside out with the lining lying flatly inside of the turned portions. The operation of assembling the component parts of the tie, and maintaining them in proper position while stitching is carried out, requires considerable care and time and increases the cost of manufacture of such ties.

It is a chief object of the invention to improve methods and apparatus for assembling and stitching neckties of the type described, and to devise a method of stitching a lining and covering material together while held in an accurately positioned manner on a mechanica1 supporting member. Another object of the invention is to provide an improved method of reversing a folded necktie covering and lining after they have been stitched together. Another object of the invention is to provide an assembly device for neckties which cooperates in holding necktie materials in place during stitching operations. Another object of the invention is to provide means for turning stitched necktie covering and lining materials inside out. A further object of the invention is to provide an apparatus which is simple, cheap and efficient and which substantially increases the speed of manufacture of neckties of the four-in-hand type, with an improved grade of product being obtained.

'The nature of the invention and its objects will be more fully understood from the following description of the drawings and discussion relating thereto.

In the accompanying drawings: Fig. 1 is a plan view of the device of the invention illustrating necktie materials assembled in readiness for a stitching operation;

Fig.1 2 is another plan view of, the device in a turning astitched necktie;

partly assembled state, illustrating a method of 55 Fig. 3 is a cross section taken on the line 33 of Fig. 1; 1

Fig. 4 isa cross section taken on the line 4- of Fig. 1;

'Fig. 5 is a view in cross section taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4; Q

Fig. 6 is an enlarged fragmentary detail view of clamping means; and

Fig. '7 is a perspective view illustrating a tie which has been stitched and turned.

In carrying out the methodof the invention, a special necktie apparatus is employed. This device includes a base element, a gaug'eplate slidably supported in the base, and a holding strip detachably secured-to the gauge plate; A necktie covering material is folded on itself about the holding strip and'placed on the gauge plate and base, with the strip being attached at one end to the covering. A necktie lining material is disposed over the adjacent edges of the folded covering. The gauge plate is provided with a lining aperture which accurately positions the lining in relation to the covering material. The gauge plate is also provided with a stitching slot extending substantially centrally of the lining aperture.

The base member is arranged adjacent some convenient type'of sewing machine such as the standard necktie stitching machine, and the gauge plate is passed along the base, thus feed ing the covering material and the lining under the sewing machine, with the needle of the machine passing through the stitching slot inthe lining aperture. When the stitching operation is completed, the covering material, lining, and holding strip are lifted away from the gauge plate. The holding strip is hooked over some convenient support, and the covering material is pulled from the strip. Since the strip is' attached' at the, opposite end of the covering, this memberis turned inside out. The. steps of assembling the covering and lining, stitching these elements together, and turning the tie inside out, are carried out in a continuous series of operations without any substantial interruption in passing from one to the other, and a very rapid manufacture of ties is thereby made possible.,

With reference to the detailed construction of the apparatus, numeral l indicates the base element which is adapted to be held adjacent a necktie stitching machine 2 by some suitable means, as for example a table 3. is formed with a channel 4 which extends longitudinally along one side thereof and is termle nated at its right-hand end, as viewed in Figs. 1,

The base element I and 2, by a wall portion 5. At the opposite side of the base element I are provided guards 6 and 7 which may be conveniently attached at the under side of the base or may be integral therewith, as desired. The guards 6 and I are spaced apart to provide a needle way 8, which extends transversely inwardly of the base element for a short distance and is thereafter elongated in directions longitudinally of the base element I. The elonated portion of the needle way permits feed elements 9 of the sewingmaohine to extend upwardly through the base element I, as may be more clearly observed in Figs. 4 and 5. ment I is preferably of a Width exceeding the width of a necktie covering of conventional type in a fully spread out position. Similarly, the base element I should be of a length at either side of the needle way 8 which is in excess of the length of a necktie covering in a fully extended position.

Numeral II denotes a gauge plate which is mounted on the base element and which is provided at its under side with a rib I2, adapted to slidably engage within the channel 4 of the basev element. ment of the gauge plate in the channel 4 serves to. maintain edges of the gauge plate in parallel alinement with edges of the base element in all positions, r I I At an opposite edge of the gauge plate is a spacing stripIS, which mayeither be separately attached to, or be integral with, the plate. Intermediate the rib I2 and the spacing strip I3 is a;.pairof 'spaced-apartfriction strips I4 and I5, aslmay. be more clearly seen in Figs. 3 and 5. The friction strips, preferably formed of arough fabric, extend longitudinally of the gauge plate in spaced-apart relation, and are adapted to provide surfacesagainst which th feed members .9 may enga ge'to urge the gauge plate forwardly with respect to the bas element I. Along the The slidably disposed arrange- The base eleends of the gauge plate the strips maybe joined together if desired.

' At itsupperside th gauge plate II presentsa lining apertureli'e which includes relatively narrow'central portions and relatively wider apron portions at theouter extremities thereof, generally conforming 'to' the shape of the necktie lining I 'l'illus'trated'linFig. 1. .Extendingcen tra'l ly ofthe lining aperture I5 and through the gaugegp e I I,"is a stitching slot I8 located directly above thespacebetween the friction strips I4. and "Ifi'fat' the 'under side of the gauge plate. The stitching slot I8 is of some convenient width suitabledor insuring proper operation of the needle IQasthe gauge plate feeds along thereunder. Awi'dth of lof an inch, forexample, has beenfound to be satisfactory. The length of the stit ching'slot is preferably such that it will ex-' ceed thel'le n gth'of a lining desired to 'be stitched to an outer 'covering'materiah In Fig; l a'lining I? and a covering material I9 "have been illustrated in assembled position on the gauge plate II. The lining aperture is partly formed by a wall 20, which extends longitudinally there'a'long, and which is curved to conform to element, such as the'lining I'I'. H

The opposite sid of the lining aperture I6 is constituted by a ro'wof pins 2| and a curved edge 22 'of'a holding strip 23; which is maintained in abutting relation against the row of pins 21. The

the'tapered edge of a conventional necktie Iin'i'ng curved-edge 22 of the holding strip is shaped to conform to an edge of 'a conventional necktie lining in the manner described in connection'jwith the-edgeof-thewa-ll' 20. Atthe right-handcnd of 7 the holding strip 23 is provided a clamp 24 which is employed to fasten the strip to one end of the covering material.

The holdin strip 23 is formed at one end with an opening which permits engagement of the strip around a post 25 projecting upwardly from the plate II. The width of the holding strip varies throughout its length to correspond to the variation in width of the covering material I9 when folded upon itself about the strip. Preferably the strip is of a width which permits the edges of the folded covering material to extend laterally across the stitching slot I8 a uniform amount all the way along thus insuring that stitching will take place uniformly throughout the length of the tie. By the strip design noted, uniform overlappin of the stitching slot by the covering edges is obtained for a tie which varies in width, to provide the usual tapering apron portion's. The fastenings 2I are adapted to pierce through the necktie material in its doubled over state, and to hold the edges of the tie in substantially fixed relation with respect to the stitching slot Bat all times during the stitching operation.

The edge of the holding strip 23, together with the fastening members or pins 2I, serves as a satisfactory side for the lining I1, which may be superimposed above the folded edges of the cover ing member I9, as has been illustrated in Fig. .1. The base and gaugeplate are adapted to be supported adjacent the needle III of a sewing ma chine, with the needle way 8 and the stitching slot i8 occurring in alinement when the gauge plate I! is moved longitudinally alon the base under the machine. Atone side of the base I has been provided a shelf 26 on which is mounted a stud "2?. The stud 21 is used in turning the tie.

In operation, the base element I is disposedadjacent a sewing machine 2, diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 4. The gauge plate II is placed on the base element with the rib I2 engaged in the channel 4, and the end 28 of the rib I2 is brought into abutting relation with the wall portion 5 at the extremity of 'the'channel l,

A necktie covering material I9 is spread out over the plate and the base element, with the tip of the relatively larger apron portion .being disposed at one side of the post 25, as illustrated'in Fig. 1 of the drawings. The holding strip 23 is engaged over the post 25 and allowed to fall upon the. spread-out necktie covering material I9, which is thereafter folded over upon itself and around the holding strip 23 and evenly brought together.

The extremity of the relatively smaller apron portion of the covering material is attached to the, end of the holding strip 23 by means of the clamp 24. i The covering material I9 thusfolded uponitsjelf is pulled lightly against the .outer edge of the holding strip 23 throughout its length-to allow the edges of the covering to extend laterally across the {stitching slot I8 in a uniform manner. While in this lightly stretched position, the-covering material is pressed down around the pins 2I, which holds the covering in a properly alinecl and relatively fixed position on the gauge plate .I I;.

A lining member I1 is then placed over the necktie covering material with the edges of the lining abutting the wall 20 at one side and bearin against the pins 24, the inner edgeofstrip 23 and the overlying covering material at anop' posite side. This'arra-nges the lining so that ljhe stitching slot'occurs centrally below th lining and a substantial margin ofthe-covering edges occurs between the lining and the stitching-slot.

its edges are The gauge plate H, carrying the holding strip 23, the covering material l9, and the overlying lining I1, is slid forwardly under the stitching machine, with the stitching slot l3 occurring in alinement with the path of movement of the needle across the necktie materials and substantially centrally of the lining l l. Stitching is then carried out in the usual manner, with the feed members 9 engaging against friction elements It and IE to move the gauge plate in a direction longitudinally with respect to the base element 1.

The stitched necktie covering material and lining, together with the holding strip 23, are removed from the gauge plate and the holding strip 23 is engaged by means of the Opening in its extremity over the stud 21 on the shelf 26, or other suitable projection. The free end of the relatively large apron portion of the tie and the stitched lining are doubled over upon themselves, and pulled over the holding strip 23 in the manner illustrated in Fig. 3, to turn the tie inside out. Thereafter the clamp 24 is released, the end of the holding strip is removed, and the tie is completed.

An important feature of the method described consists in the operation of holding the necktie covering material and lining adjacent a support ing element, such as a holding strip, While carry ing out a stitching operation. Also important is the method of stripping the sewed tie from the holding strip while maintaining an end of the strip engaged on the post. It is pointed out that the operations of assembling the covering material in proper position with respect to the 1ining, the stitching operation, and the stripping pro" cedure, are all substantially continuously carried out, thereby providing a rapid and efficient method of manufacturing ties of the type including a covering and a lining.

The use of a specially sized holding strip provides rapid positioning of necktie covering material and, together with the pins noted, not only holds the necktie covering material, but positions it in properly overlapping relation with respect to the stitching slot of the gauge plate. Also, the combination of a gauge plate having a stitching slot, friction members and a holding strip, provides for accurate, simple, and rapid assembly and stitching of the component parts of neckties of the four-in-hand type, and eliminates interruption of the necktie making process at the several stages of assembling, stitching and turning inside out.

The gauge plate further embodies the desirable feature of a lining aperture combined with a holding strip and fastening means, which is of sufficient depth for folded over edges of covering material to be first placed in the lining aperture and thereafter to provide for the lining itself being placed upon the covering and automatically falling into a position in which the stitching groove of the plate extends along a line substantially central of the lining element.

Still another important feature of the invention consists in the use of relatively light materials to constitute the various parts disclosed, including the base, the gauge plate, and the holding strip. For example, I may employ sheet materials such as paper, plastics, and the like, in addition to metals and other heavier substances.

A number of advantages are obtained by "the method and apparatus described. The stitching operations may be more accurately carried out, and ties may be made more uniform in size.

Better resiliency in ties can be obtained, and stitched ties may be more easily turned inside out. The apparatus is adapted to use on various types of machines for stitching neckwear, and results in faster stitching operations being carried out. A cheaper thread may be employed and no rethreading need be resorted to. The combined gauge plate, base and holding strip require rela tively less space as compared with conventional assembly and clamping mechanism used in tie manufacture. The device is light, cheap to run, quiet, and generally efllcient in all respects.

If desired, various modifications of the invention may be resorted to, in which other types of holding strips, fastening means, clamping devices and the like, may be resorted to. The use of a plate or support having a stitching slot may be combined with other types of holding means, as for example folding flaps and the like, and the device may be employed in connection with other methods of fastening than stitching, as for example stapling.

While I have shown a preferred embodiment of my invention, it should be understood that various changes and modifications may be resorted to without departing from the spirit of the invention, as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. An article of the character described comprising a support, a base element mounted on said support, said base element having a channel extending longitudinally along the upper side thereof, a gauge plate having a rib slidably engaged in. the channel, said gauge plate having a stitching slot formed centrally therein, and provided with friction elements extending along the sides of the slot, said gauge plate at its upper side presenting an aperture shaped to correspond to the form of a necktie lining element, holding strip means forming a part of one side of the aperture and being detachably secured to the said gauge plate, said holding strip means having One edge thereof variably spaced apart from the said stitching slot to provide a substantially curved surface corresponding to one of the contours of a necktie, and fastening means for holding covering material located around the holding strip means.

2. A device for assembling and stitching necktie materials including a covering and a lining, said device comprising supporting means having a stitching opening formed therein, a gauge plate slidably associated with said supporting means, said gauge plate having a stitching slot formed therein, said gauge plate at its upper surface presenting a lining aperture, a holding strip detachably secured to the gauge plate, said holding strip constituting one side of the lining aperture, said holding strip being of varying width for the purpose of maintaining edges of the covering material in suitably spaced relation with respect to the said stitching slot.

3. An article of the character described comprising supporting means, a gauge plate, said gauge plate presenting an aperture at its upper side formed in the shape of a lining, said gauge plate having a stitching slot extending longitudinally therealong and substantially centrally of the said lining aperture, a holding strip forming one side of the lining aperture, said holding strip adapted to support folded necktie covering and to arrange edges of the necktie covering in spaced overlapping relation with respect to the stitching slot, and fastening means for holding the folded covering in the spaced position.

ALI J. FIUMEDQRO. 

